Monday, November 23, 2015

Hanfu: The Real Chinese Traditional Dress

Since late 17th Century, worldwide already recognized the Chinese traditional dress is truly cheongsam. Is that true? Recently in 21st Century, a Chinese man in Zhengzhou, Wang Letian, was the first person to wear forgotten dress called hanfu in public in the 21st Century. His clothes was inspired others to follow the forgotten dress in 2003. Now, Malaysia and Singapore already aware of hanfu movement. I was realize about the dress is truly forgotten from long time ago.

Hanfu Movement in London
When I was kindergarten, I started to know about hanfu since my dad watched the Chinese drama in Vietnamese dub. But, I didn't recognized the name of the dress. In my second grade, I watched inaccurate Disney Mulan, and I admired Mulan's dress. But, I still didn't know the dress name. Since 2012, I surfed in internet, and I founded the name of Chinese traditional clothe, and it's hanfu. First, I thought kimiono was origin in Japan, but now it's Chinese influence in Japan. Not just in Japan. Hanfu was also influenced in Korea and Vietnam. Korea is hanbok. For Vietnamese dress in beginning, I already know áo dài as Vietnamese folk costume. And now, I know áo giao linh, old Vietnamese folk dress in ancient time before Nguyen Dynasty. In US, lot of typical Chinese dress is cheongsam and even some modern Chinese movie and anime. In that time, I was confused.

When I do research about the Hanfu, I founded out hanfu was started 3000 years ago. Hanfu was invented in Shang Dynasty, 1600 BC to 1000 BC. Hanfu consisted of a yi, a narrow-cuffed, knee-length tunic tied with a sash, chang (narrow skirt), and bixi (a lenth of fabric that reached the knees). Hanfu is made of silk and painted in red and green.

Shang Dynasty Hanfu
In the beginning of Western Zhou Dynasty, hanfu began to the distinction between classes. Most decorated dress, length of a skirt, and the wideness of a sleeve is based on rank level. Sleeves was made wider than in Shang Dynasty and yi tunic was also closed with jade decorations with a sash tied around the waist. The collar were crossed and tied to the right while skirts and trousers depend in length from knee-length to ground-length.

Typical Han Dynasty Hanfu for women.

Eastern Zhou Dynasty invented shenyi (the deep robe). Shenyi is a combination of tunic and skirt, and now, it considered that it's part of clothing shaped into shenyi. Shenyi can be worn by anybody. A complete hanfu developed in every dynasty. Now, hanfu consist in each part: Yi - which is any open cross-collar garment and is worn by both gender, Pao - any closed full-body dress, which is only men can wore, Ru - open shirt with cross collar, Shan - open cross-collar shirt or jacket which is worn over the yi, qun or chang - a type of skirt which both gender can worn, and Ku - a type of trousers. It is traditional to decorate hanfu with tassels and jade pendants or ornaments, pei, hung from the sash.  Men wore hat while women wore hairpieces in combination with hanfu. The headgear is based on marked profession or social rank.
Ming Dynasty Hanfu for women
Men Typical Hanfu
Typical Tang Dynasty for Women



Emperor Wu's Hanfu
In 1644, Manchu conquered Ming Dynasty and forced people to wear Manchu style clothes instead of hanfu. People who protested was executed. Men have to shaved hair. In the end of Qing Dynasty, hanfu was disappeared except Confucius and Buddhist monk. Han people favored the western-style dress. Most of Han Chinese wear western-style clothe while hanfu is worn rarely except monks and priests. Since 2003, hanfu is now worn during festivals, ritualistic ceremonies, graduation, and historical recreation.

Jet Li's hanfu in Hero (Chinese film)
Here some photo galley of hanfu:

Aoqun
Banbi
Zhiju
Contemporary hanfu 
Daopao
Panling Lanshan
Shenyi 
Zhiduo 

After I learned all about the hanfu history, I am truly admired hanfu. I consider hanfu is a true national dress of China. But, cheongsam is totally overrated because it's combination of Manchu dress and western-style dress. Cheongsam was invented in 20th Century. Cheongsam is not originated in China, but it's originated in Manchuria. But, I know everybody have a limited knowledge. However, hanfu is one most elegant national dress in China.



No comments:

Post a Comment